Rocks in My Boots, Fire in the Sky: Hiking Acatenango Volcano in Guatemala
- Meredith Peters
- Jul 2
- 6 min read
Whenever my husband, Pete, and I plan a trip, a challenging hike usually becomes the centerpiece of our itinerary. We build the rest of the trip around it, then spend the rest of our time exploring the destination, experiencing the local culture, and enjoying everything else it has to offer. It's become one of our favorite ways to travel together.
When we started planning our trip to Guatemala, hiking Acatenango Volcano immediately went on the list. We knew it would be tough. We're active, reasonably fit, and hike whenever we travel, so we figured we were prepared for a solid climb.
This hike still pushed both of us to our absolute limits. We have done a lot of hiking throughout the world, and this was one of the hardest trails we have ever completed. If you're thinking about hiking Acatenango Volcano in Guatemala, here's what the experience was really like.
The Warm-Up Hike: Pacaya Volcano
Two days before our main trek, we decided to hike Pacaya Volcano. It was just a day hike we wanted to take, and compared to what awaited us on Acatenango, Pacaya felt like a walk in the park. The climb took less than an hour, and while it was a steady, heart-pumping incline, the real reward was at the top.
We had fresh, homemade pizza cooked directly over the volcano's hot coals. It was absolutely delicious and easily one of the most memorable lunches we have ever had while traveling.
Hiking Acatenango Volcano
Decision Number One: We Said No to the Porter
Before we even started climbing, our guide offered us a porter to carry our packs. Being self-sufficient, independent hikers, we said no thanks, we've got this.
I regretted that exactly 25 minutes in.
We'd packed light. Just a daypack with the essentials, but it didn't matter. The second the trail pointed straight up, those few pounds might as well have been bricks.
The Human Traffic Jam
The trail starts easy, winding through a wooded area for about fifteen minutes until you hit the trail restaurant, where we stopped to grab our packed lunches.
Right behind the restaurant, the trail narrowed, barbed wire fences closed in on both sides, and suddenly we were playing chicken with hundreds of exhausted hikers sliding down while we tried to push up. Dodging barbed wire while dodging people was not what I was expecting.
Then the Real Climb Started
Once we broke free of the traffic jam, it was just relentless switchbacks for hours. You're gaining 5,150 feet just to reach base camp, most of it on loose volcanic gravel. My boots filled with rocks over and over. The dust was so thick I wore a bandana over my face just to breathe.
There's a reason this trail has so many rest areas. They aren't there for decoration. When I looked at the trail map before we started, I thought it seemed a little excessive. About 20 minutes into the hike, I realized every single one of them was well deserved.
There was one stretch, towards the end of the ascent, that almost leveled out, which felt like a trick because it was still, somehow, uphill.
Five hours after we started, base camp finally came into view. My only thought: Thank God!
We made our way to our humble abode, which looked like a five-star resort after five hours of climbing, and promptly collapsed onto our cots. At that moment, I was incredibly happy I'd decided to upgrade from sleeping on a mat to having actual cots.
Our tent was simple but surprisingly comfortable. It included sleeping bags, warm blankets, a small table, and a covered front porch with two chairs where we could sit and watch Volcán de Fuego erupt throughout the evening.
The Decision I'd Come to Regret
After barely an hour of rest, we had a choice: stay at camp, or do the optional evening hike to Acatenango's true summit at 13,044 feet, adding four brutal hiking hours to an already exhausting day just to get closer to Fuego's ridge.
We said yes.
I wish we hadn't, kind of.
The summit hike began with about an hour of downhill hiking, followed by another hour of relentless climbing. By the time we reached the top, thick fog had rolled in, followed by freezing rain and howling wind. We waited for more than an hour, hoping the clouds would clear enough to give us a close-up view of Volcán de Fuego erupting, but Mother Nature had other plans.
As the evening wore on, the summit became increasingly crowded. Between the darkness, the storm, and the narrow, slippery ridge packed with hikers, it started to feel genuinely unsafe. Pete and I finally decided it was time to head back to base camp, and looking back, I'm so glad we did. We got a head start on the crowd and avoided having to navigate that narrow trail in the dark with hundreds of other hikers.
The View That Made It Worth It
About halfway back to base camp, we turned around and were finally rewarded with an incredible view of Volcán de Fuego. Against the darkness of the night, we could clearly see bright red lava flowing down the side of the mountain. It was a spectacular sight and made every difficult step of the hike feel worthwhile.
We stumbled back to camp sometime after 10:00 p.m., and our guide brought a hot dinner right to our tent. Who knew room service was included? Dinner was chicken, mashed potatoes, and vegetables, and it looked amazing. I managed about four bites, a few sips of hot chocolate, and then crawled into my sleeping bag before my body could stage a full revolt. Even though I was starving and knew I needed to eat, I was simply too exhausted to get much down.
The next morning, plenty of groups woke up early for a sunrise hike. After the bonus hike the night before, we opted out of the sunrise hike. We drank our coffee at a very respectable 6:15 a.m., packed up, and started the hike back down.
The Descent
I wouldn't call the descent a walk in the park, but it was a welcome change after the relentless climb the day before.
The loose volcanic gravel still made the trail slippery, but my trekking poles earned their keep and helped me to stay upright.
When the restaurant finally came into view, I knew we were home free and that a well-earned breakfast was waiting for us. Since we had started our descent at least an hour before most of the other hikers, we had the place almost entirely to ourselves. What took us five hours to climb, only took us two hours to descend.
We were filthy, sore, and completely exhausted, but that breakfast tasted incredible.
A Few Unexpected Observations About Acatenango
A few things caught me by surprise during the hike.
Stray dogs wandered all over the mountain. They seemed perfectly at home, as if they'd claimed the entire trail as their own, and they had. However, it was still upsetting to see that many stray dogs wandering around the trail.
One of the biggest surprises was the amount of trash along the trail. Litter was scattered throughout the hike, even near the summit. For a place that's so incredibly beautiful, it was disappointing to see and honestly took away from the experience.
One thing that made Pete and me laugh was realizing we were easily among the oldest hikers on the mountain. Most of the crowd looked to be in their twenties. Judging by the number of younger hikers sitting on the side of the trail trying to catch their breath, though, youth didn't seem to offer much of an advantage. Acatenango has a way of humbling just about everyone.
Why We Went with a Private Guide
You do have the option of joining a group hike, but Pete and I chose to book a private guide.
For us, it was money well spent.
This hike is hard enough without feeling like you're holding up a group every time you need to stop and catch your breath. Our guide hiked at our pace, waited whenever we needed a break, and never once made us feel like we needed to hurry.
Knowing that the only people we had to worry about were ourselves made the entire experience much more enjoyable.
Final Thoughts
Hiking Acatenango Volcano in Guatemala was one of the most physically demanding hikes I've ever done, but sitting at base camp watching Volcán de Fuego erupt under the night sky made every step worthwhile. It's an experience I'll never forget.
If you're reasonably fit, enjoy a challenge, and are looking for an adventure you'll be talking about for years, this hike deserves a spot on your bucket list.
Planning a trip to Guatemala?
Whether you're looking to hike Acatenango Volcano, explore colonial Antigua, visit Lake Atitlán, or combine Guatemala with another Central or South American destination, I can help you design an itinerary that fits your travel style and interests.
Learn more about my Signature Services and schedule your complimentary consultation here:https://www.travelwithmeredith.com/signature-services
Comments